27th June 1988.
Received telegram from Delhi informing the selection for Kailash-ManasarovarYatra. When my father delivered it to me, I shouted out of sheer joy and thanked my Lord a thousand and one times. My parents were also happy at my selection. I rang first to Tanjore and informed Mr.Rajaram & family. Before that, I wrote a letter to my beloved stating my selection in the Yatra. Mr. Rajaram gave the address of one Mr. Sengottaiyan of Erode( a participant of the '82 yatra batch) to contact him for further details. That evening I went to Skandasramam and shared with Swami the details.
28th June 1988.
I gave a telegram of acceptance to New Delhi. I went to Erode to NRC's house and from there with Uma I went to Mr. Sengottaiyan's place and met his son Mr.Kumaraswamy.
1st July 1988.
I went to Erode and met Mr. Sengottaiyan (Erode Matching Centre), 111 Easwaran Koil Street,Erode.
and he helped me with all useful details.
15th July 1988.
Departure from Salem to New Delhi by Kerala Express, scheduled time : 7.50 pm. But the train was late by four and a half hours. I and Chandrasekar reached Delhi on 17 July Sunday at 4.20 pm. We took an auto and reached Palam colony where the ashram was. The same evening we met Swami Radhakrishnan (Kailash Manasarovar Ashram). We had dinner at Karnataka Association Mess (Mothi Bagh).
18 July 1988.
Today was our medical screening . My room mate at Ashram was one Mr. Chandrasekar Rao. We started early at 7 o'clock to the Secretariat where the office of Under Secretary Ministry of External Affairs was situated. What a magnificent building it is! We met Mr.Shenoy (Sec) there and after having a small briefing we went to Ram Mahohar Lohia Hospital (It's a Government hospital). The complex was very large with updated facilities.
The tests started and it was a tough day all the way sweating heavily running here and there.
One thing good about Delhi is that it is very beautifully planned and it's the first time I've seen a city which is so abundant with trees and other shrubs (oranamental) even amidst crowded areas.
Each roundana was well maintained with lawns. But for this maintenance of environment, Delhi would be the worst place to live in with its high rate of pollution.
19 July 1988.
The test continued the second day also. By this time I was acquainted with all my group members. Altogether we were 41 yatris. Dr. B.B. Gupta, one chief physician at ward No.10, IV floor OPD, was very efficient and was very strict about the examinations.I too had a small problem. I don't know what's wrong with my ECG, the Dr. asked me to take it again and even then he was not satisfied. He asked me to go to the cardiologist for further examination along with 7 other yatris.
God! I started worrying. I was probably the youngest member in the team and if I fail this test I'll not be let to participate. I was very tensed and I prayed the Lord to straighten out the problem, Thank God! It seemed there was some defect in the ECG machine and the cardiologist certified me perfectly fit.But later it was announced that the final selection list will be declared only the next day.
20 July 1988.
All of us assembled at No.4 South Block, M.E (China) Sec's room. A tinge of tense prevailed. The list was finally read out. Gosh! of the 41 yatris called for selection only 27 were selected and I too was ' selected' for the Yatra. It was really sad to see the persons who have not been selected. But it's always better for them not to go for the yatra and then suffer. This severs medical test refers to a incident which happened in the I batch this year. The test was somewhat liberal for them and while the yatra was half-way through, two women suffered form severe breathing problem and ultimately they were air-lifted from that point.
21 July 1988
We obtained our visa today . we received it at the office of Under Sec. M.E (China)
22 July 1988
Moving to State Bank of India (Parliament St) we got our F.T.S for $480. (the days' Indian Value is Rs.6840).
23 July 1988.
We had a final briefing at K.M.Ashram given by Swami. Since I was new to the yatra, Swami's guidance was of great help. My health was improving but the cough persisted.
24 July 1988
T.C.Rao and I got ready as early as 1a.m . We were about to start at 2 a.m from ashram and reach Chandralok building at 3 a.m. Swami picked me up in his scooter and Rao came by auto with food package.
4.15 a.m Departure by Parvat travels ( A UP undertaking)
Our route -Moradabad-Bilaspur
12.15 noon: Bowali . It's a hill station in Nainital Dt. We had lunch at Tourist Rest House there. From here it was all hills. Pine trees were abundant.
2.45 p.m ALMORA
6.00 p.m BAGESHWAR . Night we visited the temple . First day's stay at Bageshwar. This is a place where two rivers Sarayu and Gomathi meet.
25 July 1988
8.00 a.m Departure . Before departure we visited Hanuman Mandir . We had lunch at Chakouri.
5.30 p.m Dharchula. This place is separated from Nepal only by a river. So got ready quickly and had a stroll to Nepal. I purchased a wind-cheater there. It is a must to return before 7.30pm or else the bridge will be closed. Both these days we were travelling by bus and everyone were anxious as the trek starts tomorrow. It was 11.30 when we slept.
26 July 1988.
I woke up this morning disturbed by a sudden noise. It was heavily raining outside and I wondered how the trek would be in this monsoon. We dressed up quickly and started by our bus to TAWAGHAT from where the trek starts. It was 19kms from here. Lord! it was so beautiful through out. Just on the way, there was a heavy land slide and was partly blocking the bridge. We managed to cross it and reached Tawaghat. We started our trekking at 8.50am . We are to climb more 6000 ft today and we started happily. In the beginning it was fine, but as time passed, I felt very exhausted. I prayed the Lord Muruga to provide me all the strength I needed. The local people were born tough, and the woman who was accompanying us was carrying her child in a basket hanging from her shoulder. I was carrying a rucksack on my back with a camera, two water cans, rain coat (very essential as this was monsoon season) and few small articles. A sudden cold breeze came and drizzling started. I wore the raincoat and started walking again. There had been a land slide just a few hours ago. Heavy boulders were blocking our 4 ft path and it was raining heavily too. One have to cross such paths with great care. We were also advised to use our stick without any reluctance and to keep our trek close to the hill side. Almost near the camp, cramp developed in both my legs and was very painful. I found it difficult event to take a step further. I prayed to Lord Muruga(as I was blessed with the 'prasadam') and then I felt little better and reached the camp around 1pm. PANGU where we ought to stay that night.
Ms.Gokulas showed us a technique to relieve our leg pain at our camp. We covered 8kms today and a height of 7200ft.
27 July 1988
We started as early as 5.30 am today. The route was not as plain steep as yesterday and the route was having ups and downs. It was very green and beautiful through out the way and we crossed many small streams. There were different hues of mushrooms on the way. Today we met yatris of II Batch returning from Kailash. We diverted our to (via) Narayana ashram. It's simply great. That's all one could say. Swami Narayana has selected a beautiful spot , made it more beautiful, leveling the site and has constructed a beautiful temple there and a house for meditation . I felt as if the power could pierce one's body as we enter the temple. The atmosphere was serene and divine. Then I meditated in his chamber which was constructed with wooden planks.(Swami was himself an architect).
Today the weather was good and sunny. All the way say till 5 kms from Pangu, the path was wonderful with trees that created a superb atmosphere. We reached lrkha at 1.30pm and we were accommodated in fine tents facing the mountains. We had light entertainment . The local tribal kids singing songs . They were so innocent.
28 July 1988.
Heavy rains started very early . So our departure ( myself, Mr.Raja, Rao, Ganesan, Padmanaban & Dr. Jani ) was delayed to 6am . Others left 45 earlier . We lit up the chimney lantern we were provided with and then moved to complete our nature's call. Here was the real trouble. It was heavily raining outside and it was extremely cold. We wore our rain coats and strapping our rucksacks we started our journey. It was a heavy downpour and the ascent was quite steep with all the new streams rushing through our path. We almost covered 6-7kms in rain. And it was a real discomfort that the raincoats gave way to the water droplets and the shirts became wet. Even before that, walking through the gushing streams, water entered our shoes and it was very difficult to make our movement. Then the descent started and it was so narrow a path, so slippery , that a single mistake would make us tumble down to depths of 300 meters.
Finally the rain stopped and slowly our friend came out from clouds. Through the rest of our walk (approximately 14 kms) through woods, which were so beautiful and through bridges over rivers. Our clothes dried up automatically and we reached our camp GALA.
At Jipti, we were attracted by a sudden thundering sound and for the first time I saw live landslide and it continued for several minutes with huge boulders and heavy loads of soil slipping from great heights to the river bank, down the valley..
We were instructed that tomorrow's camp to MALPA would be the most treacherous route of the trip. We were shuffled and divided into six groups and with one youngster as leader (for physical support to the elders). I was one among them.
29 July 1988
We were in groups so that we could help each other. I thought earlier that the route would only be tough but it was very dangerous also. The whole of 11 kms we covered today three-fourth was a dangerous descend with the river Kali running forcefully to the other side. Next an exhausting step was ahead which drained out most of the yatris' breath. As said this could be the most tiring route. While descending , it was scorching hot and luckily a beautiful waterfalls was there on the way and I relished the bath (here is where washed my jeans too). Our camp at Malpa was very close to the Kali river and the roar of her was heard persistently. And the night was extremely cold.
30 July 1988
Today's trek was very easy and it took only four and a half hours to cover it. From Malpa we reached BUDDHI where again men had accommodation at a fine tent. Our tent had beautiful flowering plants in the front.
31 July 1988.
Departure : 5.30am
Distance : 18 kms approx.
Nature of Route: 3/4 plains and 1/4 difficult path
Arrival of GUNJI :11.30 am
Initially the route was very steep and then it descended with clay soil. Slowly the pine trees decreased and we entered into a new world(Immediately after the ascend was over, we saw a beautiful peak with frozen snow (glaciers) which just reminded me of icecream. Then coming to the plains (on high altitude) suddenly the cold breeze started to blow and it was so intense that we felt our fingers numb and our wind-cheaters proved useless. Thinking that it would be normal, we had not taken our sweaters. The altitude was 11500 feet. From there, we descended. We saw fascinating wild flowers. Again, we were in the proximity of the river Kali.
After coming to the plains, the geological scheme changed drastically. The peaks were barren and some were with red soil. The plains stretched for a long distance and we came to Buddhi. The altitude is 10500 feet MSL and it was very cold. It started raining and was windy. There was acute water shortage too.
1 August 1988
Due to heavy rain our start was delayed. Departure 6.45am . We went to Veda Vyasar's temple.
3 August 1988
Departure from NAVIDANG at 5.30am. We had cornflakes with milk as early breakfast. Today we walked 5kms which was a total steep ascent. Our tent was the only one with wooden floor. Inspite of that the night was extremely cold, say 6 degree. At around 7pm the place was wholly covered with mist.
We started from Navidang (13500 feet) and attained 16500 feet to reach Lipulekh pass. We underestimated this trek, and it almost killed us. We should at any cost should cross Lipu pass and descend to the other side into China before 9.30 am or else we would face a deadly snow storm. And that will be the doom of everyone. Even before reaching Lipu pass, we felt tired and the time was already 9 am. For the first time in my life I saw solid glittering snow just near our path. Unfortunately some of the yatris were so exhausted that we were compelled to take horses to cross Lipu.
We met III batch yatris. The ITBP police so far escorting us left us under the authority of Chinese police welcomed us and immediately we all boarded horses and rode on it for an hour. The whole path was lined with beautiful multi-coloured hills on both sides and it revealed a strong erosion by the wind. While we were traveling through the pass I got reminded of Omar Sheriff and Mecanas Gold.
Then we boarded a Chinese truck and traveling half an hour seeing beautiful peaks with snow covered glaciers we met a team with a bus. Another 45 minutes of bus travel took us to Taklakot and to Pulang guest house. The bedding arrangements were fine. We were asked to set our clocks to 3.30
+ for IST. And the sun sets here at 11pm and rises at around 8am. We had a good dinner with Chinese dishes.
4 Aug 1988
The whole day was a rest day, but we were not permitted to get out of the guest house.
5 August 1988
Early this morning at 8.23am we departed from Pulang Guest House for our base camps respectively. We were divided into two groups and I was in a group to do the Mansarovar Parikrama first. Our initial base camp for Manasarovar was at Sidhi. But we went along with Kailash parikramas to this camp, Tanjing and after leaving them there, we returned to your camp late in the evening to a place called Hore and halated there. We were informed that we should start our parikrama from this place. We were provided with the special Chinese gas stove and I joined in the preparation of tea and dinner here. The place was very bad and was surrounded by broken glass pieces thrown by drunkards). But the bedding was comfortable.
6 Aug 1988
We were quite late and departed and covered 32 kms. I walked over plains, over pebbles, over small peaks, cross small streams on horses. The lake view was awe-striking in its changing hues. We were praying the Lord all along the way to provide us energy to complete the journey--Mansarovar parikrama. Exactly after 12 hours from the start we reached Tulu at 9.15pm. We could see a beautiful a beautiful sunset and the Mount Kailash was highlighted by a single ray of sun.
7 Aug 1988
Toddy we covered 27kms comparatively easy and arrived to Saidi at 6.40pm.
8 Aug 1988
We had a holy dip in Manasarovar lake at around . The experience is inexplicable .We stayed at Saidi. Rest day.
9 Aug 1988.
We started to Kailash Base Camp -Tarjing and we stayed there. We met a group who had returned from Kailash Parikrama .
10 Aug
Kailash Parikrama I day 16kms. A good dharshan of side view. Caught in heavy freezing showers. 3 degree celsius.
11 Aug
Parikrama II day. 12kms. Through Dolma Pass ascent- Yak ride. At Dolma Pas performed pooja at an altitude 18700. Steep descend by walk.
12 Aug
Parikrama III day
Good start . Two and three fourth hours nonstop journey to base camp Tarjing. The path was very easy . I wondered seeing the various geographical changes and colours of a rocks and soil.
Reached camp at 2.50pm .Rest day . Performed pooja in the evening.
13 Aug
Started to Saidhi and reached Taklakote.
14 Aug
Went to Kojar Monastry which was 900 years old. There were huge deities of Lord Rama with Lakshmana and Sita. There was a huge Buddha statue also and a number of paintings.
15 Aug
Independence Day .Stay at Taklokote.
16 Aug
Woke up at 6am . Had breakfast at 7 am. departed at 8.15am. Then crossed Lipu and entered Indian border. Met V batch. Lunch at Navidang . We covered 5kms in an hour. From Navidang to Kalapani 9kms in 1.40 minutes.
17 Aug
Kalapani to Gunji- 8kms . Very sunny.
18 August
Gunji to Buddhi 20kms started early and climbed down 75 degree slope for 3 kms which is almost very hurting for the knees. Accommodation in a tent. We enjoyed apples from a tree there, I obtained paper from a Boj Pathra tree.
19 Aug 1988
Buddhi to Malpa 2.20min .Due to yesterday night's heavy rains there were plenty of waterfalls on our path and many small land slides. I was greeted by the waterfalls, pine trees, beautiful small birds and river kali. The weather was beautiful.
20 August
Malpa to Gala. 5 hours 45 minutes . Treacherous . Heavy rains. Many streams on the way . Then suddenly it shifted to a hot climatic condition.
21 August
Gala to Sirkha 4 hours 50 mins. Luckily no rains. (Even though there were heavy showers throughout the night.) This was the route which I loved most. Through the emerald rain forests it was simply beautiful to trek and I deliberately slowed myself.
 |
Note: K.Rathinavel's description about his yatra to Kailash Manasarovar in 1988.
